Exploring The Ross Dependency: New Zealand Antarctic Territory

Sep 5, 2011
Brian Cross

De Havilland Beaver - Expedition Lifeline - Photo by Brian Cross

In the media, the Trans-Antarctic Expedition became a 'race to the pole', a distraction from the venture's scientific achievements in the Ross Dependency.

On 4 January 1958, four and a half years after conquering Mt. Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary lead a team that reached the South Pole. It was the first overland journey since Amundsen and Scott and the first using vehicles. The event would overshadow the main aims of the expedition Hillary was a part of. The Trans-Antarctic Expedition (TAE) was a British venture with significant New Zealand backing, its purpose scientific research and discovery in the Antarctic continent.

Britain's Trans-Antarctic Expedition

The TAE was led by Vivian ‘Bunny' Fuchs, whose mainly British team would travel in Tucker Sno-Cats from the Weddell Sea to the South Pole and then on to the Ross Sea, taking scientific readings as they went. Their final destination was the New Zealand base on Ross island, giving them the distinction of being the first men to travel across Antarctica.

As second in command of the expedition, Sir Edmund Hillary led the teams there to establish what would become Scott Base, plan the best course for Fuchs’ journey from the Pole, set up a series of supply depots along the route and engage in scientific study. Science however was not Hillary's passion. Having expertly laid the depots and with time on his hands waiting for Fuchs to arrive at the last depot D700, the restless adventurer chose to make a dash for the Pole before the expedition leader himself could get there.

Sir Ed Hillary's South Pole Venture

Hillary’s opportunism in pushing on to the Pole in his Fergusson tractors would be the stuff of media attention, argument, speculation and embarrassment at senior levels of the New Zealand establishment. It took the shine off the great man’s vital part in ensuring the success of Fuchs’ venture. It also deflected attention from the work the Kiwi members of the TAE did in exploring the Ross Dependency, which their country had been administering since 1923.

Wintering over at Scott Base in 1957, while Fuchs’ Crossing Party was on the other side of Antarctica preparing for the traverse, Hillary’s Support Party planned the coming summer’s work. Good management would give them time to conduct their own scientific research under the direction of Hillary’s second in command Bob Miller. It would also give Hillary options for further exploration than was intended.

Although having responsibility for a large slice of Antarctica including the Ross Sea, New Zealand had not taken much official interest in the continent so far, and the expedition gave scientists the opportunity to influence a change in policy. 1956-58 had been designated International Geophysical Year, and that combined with the TAE's presence on the ice meant that Antarctica would attract more attention, and more resources for both science and exploration.

Kiwi Teams Explore the Ross Dependency

With winter behind the expedition, the respective teams swung into action. On 4 October 1957 the four-man Northern Survey Party, led by Richard Brooke, left Scott Base to do topographical and geological work in Victoria Land. Over the next four months they explored the dry coastal valleys as far as the Mawson Glacier and Cape Robert, then moved inland to reach the Antarctic Plateau. Before being airlifted back to Scott Base, they checked out the Skelton Glacier, which was on Fuchs’ planned route into Scott Base.

Meanwhile Harry Ayres and Roy Carlyon took a dog team southward into the unexplored Darwin Glacier region. Establishing base at Westhaven Nunatak, they surveyed the mountains as far as the Mulock Glacier, then south to the Barne Inlet. Finally, with the team strengthened by two more men brought in by air, they travelled down the Darwin Glacier to establish a new route between the Ross Ice Shelf and the inland plateau. This group was credited with mapping some 10,000 square miles of new territory in the Ross Dependency.

Miller and Marsh Cover the Ground in Antarctica

Senior scientist Bob Miller and Dr George Marsh were part of Hillary’s support team that established the depots for Fuchs’ Crossing Party. After their work was done at D700, Miller and Marsh wanted to use the available time to study the region to the southeast. With the background of a dispute between Hillary and Miller over the best use of the tractors, their respective groups parted ways. Hillary and his four companions made their motorised dash for the Pole, while Miller and Marsh used their dog team to explore the area between the Nimrod and Beardmore glaciers.

The scientists mapped mountain ranges, setting up survey points, scaling the 11,000 feet Col Peak and confirming the height of Mt Markham at 15,200 feet – then believed the continent’s highest. They discovered four new glacier systems before returning to D700 to prepare a homing beacon for planes bringing in supplies for the Crossing Party, after which they sledged back to Scott Base via the Skelton Glacier. Miller and Marsh had travelled 1670 miles, mapped 15,000 square miles and spent 110 days above 8,000 feet.

Sir Vivian Fuchs as he soon became was hailed a hero on his return to Britain, where Hillary meanwhile drew considerable bad press. At home in New Zealand, Sir Edmund was seen by the public in a much more positive light. Pointedly however, it was Miller whom the government singled out for individual honour when it came to recognising the New Zealand contingent's achievements.